The Ordinary publishes its full ingredient list and names the supplier technologies in its formula, which is unusually good source material — most brands do one or the other. Putting the two documents side by side answers a question the package cannot: in a serum named for peptides, how much of it is peptides? The brand's lash and brow serum shares both of this formula's peptides, one of them under a different supplier name — that lash formula adds two more peptides and lists all four above caffeine.
Five technologies, two peptides
The marketing names six things: REDENSYL, AnaGain, Procapil, CAPIXYL, BAICAPIL and high-solubility caffeine. None of the first five appears in the ingredient declaration, because under 21 CFR 701.3(c) an ingredient must be declared by its established name and a supplier's blend name is not one. Their components are listed individually, so the mapping can be verified against the label rather than taken on trust.
| Marketing name | Declared components on the label | Peptide? |
|---|---|---|
| REDENSYL | Larix Europaea Wood Extract · Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract · Glycine · Zinc Chloride | no |
| AnaGain | Pisum Sativum (pea) Extract | no |
| Procapil | Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1 · Apigenin · Oleanolic Acid | yes |
| CAPIXYL | Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 · Trifolium Pratense (red clover) Flower Extract | yes |
| BAICAPIL | Scutellaria Baicalensis Root · Triticum Vulgare Germ · Glycine Soja Germ Extracts | no |
| High-solubility caffeine | Caffeine | no |
Two of thirty-six declared ingredients are peptides. They sit at positions 6 and 7 — directly after caffeine at position 5.
That ordering is worth a sentence of care. 21 CFR 701.3(a) requires descending order of predominance above 1 percent, and 701.3(f)(2) releases everything at or below 1 percent from any order at all. So caffeine appearing ahead of both peptides is consistent with there being more of it, without proving a ratio. What it is not consistent with is the intuition the product name creates, that peptides are the leading active in the bottle.
What is published about each thing in it
Counts run through NCBI E-utilities on 2026-09-16, reproducible by anyone:
| Ingredient or technology | PubMed records | What those records are |
|---|---|---|
| Caffeine (with alopecia or hair growth) | 51, incl. 7 RCTs | Human trials of caffeine shampoos, liquids and blends |
| Procapil (trade name) | 6 | Blend studies; largest is unrandomised, with a questionnaire outcome |
| Biotinoyl tripeptide-1 (INCI name) | 0 | — |
| REDENSYL (trade name) | 5 | Multi-ingredient product studies and reviews |
| AnaGain (trade name) | 4 | Includes one pea-sprout-extract clinical short communication |
| Acetyl tetrapeptide-3 (INCI name) | 1 | One 24-week trial vs minoxidil, no placebo, three actives |
| CAPIXYL (trade name) | 1 | — |
| BAICAPIL (trade name) | 1 | A review, not a study |
Two patterns run through the whole right-hand column.
The peptides have almost nothing under their own names. Biotinoyl tripeptide-1 returns zero — the finding our evidence entry for the molecule is built on, reproduced today. Acetyl tetrapeptide-3 returns one record, a trial with no placebo arm and three actives in the bottle. Neither peptide has ever been tested alone.
Every trade-name record is a study of a commercial product, not of an ingredient. The titles say so: a rosemary-and-Redensyl hair product, a REGENDIL-infused product, topical Procapil with platelet-rich plasma against topical Redensyl and saw palmetto, a "topical active blend". A blend beating a vehicle tells you the blend did something; it cannot tell you which of six ingredients did it. That is the same structural problem our hair-growth evidence hub documents across this entire ingredient class.
The largest trial in the bottle belongs to the caffeine
Dhurat and colleagues (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2017) randomised 210 men with androgenetic alopecia to a 0.2% caffeine topical liquid or 5% minoxidil solution for six months, with the proportion of anagen hairs on frontal and occipital trichogram as the primary endpoint. Caffeine improved the anagen ratio by 10.59%, minoxidil by 11.68% — a difference of 1.09% — and the authors concluded non-inferiority, reported against the CONSORT 2010 extension for non-inferiority trials.
Two things in the paper limit what that means, and both are stated in it. It was open-label with no placebo arm: the comparator was an active drug, which the authors defend as more appropriate than placebo against an established standard, but it means the trial cannot separate either product from expectation. And it was funded by Dr. Kurt Wolff GmbH & Co. KG, which markets the tested liquid as Alpecin; one author is a company employee and another a paid consultant.
So the ingredient with the largest and most conventionally designed evidence file in this serum is caffeine — the one ingredient in the formula that is not a peptide and not in the product name. Whether the 0.2 percent concentration studied bears any relation to the amount here is not disclosed, and cannot be, for the reasons our peptide serum page sets out.
What the published formula shows
It establishes an unusually transparent brand: the full list is published, the technologies are named, and the mapping between them holds up against the label. It establishes two peptides, both below the 1 percent line, both with essentially no literature under their own names. It establishes a caffeine with a real trial record behind it, at an undisclosed concentration, listed above the peptides.
It does not establish what six months of using this serum does to anyone's hair, and we make no claim about that — we have not tested it. What a published formula can show is which of its ingredients have been studied and how, and in this bottle the answer is not the one the name implies.
Sources
- The Ordinary, Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density — published ingredient declaration and named technologies, theordinary.com, read 2026-09-16.
- 21 CFR 701.3, Designation of ingredients — eCFR, paragraphs (a), (c) and (f)(2), read 2026-09-16.
- PubMed record counts via NCBI E-utilities, run 2026-09-16.
- Dhurat R, Chitallia J, May TW, Jayaraaman AM, Madhukara J, Anandan S, Vaidya P, Klenk A. An Open-Label Randomized Multicenter Study Assessing the Noninferiority of a Caffeine-Based Topical Liquid 0.2% versus Minoxidil 5% Solution in Male Androgenetic Alopecia. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2017;30(6):298–305 — PubMed 29055953, full text and disclosure statement read at PMC5804833.
