Peptide Glow Journal

Hexapeptide-9: Three Records, and Two of Them Exist Because It Does Not Get Through Skin

The whole published file is three papers. One modifies the molecule to make it penetrate, one adds a solvent to push it through, and the third tests a different ingredient with a similar name. Nothing has tested plain hexapeptide-9 on people.

Fiona G · Edited by Caroline S · Published 2026-09-19

Illustration: A clear liquid droplet on a glass slide, resting on a rose-beige ceramic surface.
Illustration

Hexapeptide-9 has one of the smallest published files of any peptide sold in beauty: three records, counted on 2026-09-19 across both hyphenations. What makes it worth an entry is not the size of the file but its shape. Two of the three papers exist because of the same problem, and the third is about something else.

The molecule

Sequence Gly-Pro-Gln-Gly-Pro-Gln
Systematic name glycyl-L-prolyl-L-glutaminylglycyl-L-prolyl-L-glutamine
PubChem CID 16129319
Formula / weight C24H38N8O9 / 582.6 g/mol
CAS 885024-94-2
Trade name Collaxyl IS

The sequence is two repeats of glycine-proline-glutamine. Glycine followed by proline is the motif that repeats through collagen itself, and the authors of its clinical trial describe the material as a collagen peptide. At 582.6 g/mol it is heavier than the copper tripeptide and lighter than the palmitoyl peptides that dominate the shelf.

A search for the trade name Collaxyl in titles and abstracts returns zero records. So does a search for the sequence GPQGPQ. Everything published about this ingredient is published under its INCI name.

The three records

1. The trial, and it tested a ring rather than a chain. A randomized, double-blinded, active- and vehicle-controlled study assigned healthy volunteers with ageing skin to twice-daily 0.002% cyclized hexapeptide-9 serum, 0.002% retinol serum, or vehicle, for 56 days.

Endpoint Cyclized hexapeptide-9 Retinol 0.002%
Crow's feet — number −2.20 (95% CI −4.38, −0.03) not significant
Crow's feet — area −3.95 (−5.80, −2.11) −2.23 (−3.86, −0.60)
Crow's feet — roughness −1.95 (−3.30, −0.59) not significant
Forehead — number −2.88 (−4.21, −1.56) −1.05 (−1.69, −0.41)
Forehead — area −4.90 (−5.97, −3.82) reported as decreased
Forehead — roughness −3.96 (−5.92, −2.01) not significant

Except for crow's-feet roughness, the peptide arm showed significantly larger effects than the retinol arm on every outcome, and the authors report a time-dependent increase in potency with longer use. Three things bound that result. The abstract does not state the number of volunteers. The retinol comparator sits at 0.002%, which is a low concentration for retinol. And the tested molecule is not the one on a label.

2. Why the molecule was modified at all, in the trial's own words. The study's background states that topical peptide use is "limited due to low stability and poor skin permeability", and that the cyclized form was developed with "increased stability and skin permeability". Cyclization joins the ends of the peptide into a ring. It is a structural change, made because the linear molecule is not good enough at the job — and INCI nomenclature has no way to declare it, so both forms are simply "hexapeptide-9" on a carton if they appear there at all.

3. The second paper solves the same problem from the other end. Rather than changing the peptide, it changes the skin. An ionic liquid prepared from gamma-aminobutyric acid and lactic acid was used as a penetration enhancer, raising cumulative permeation of hexapeptide-9 4.79-fold and subcutaneous retention 7.89-fold over twelve hours against no enhancer. Its opening premise is that peptides "exhibit poor transdermal efficiency". That is two independent research groups, in the same year, building different machinery around the same limitation.

4. The third record is a different ingredient. A 2026 framework paper on evaluating the safety of cosmetic peptides with bioinformatic tools runs a panel through BLASTp, ToxinPred, Peptipedia, BIOPEP-UWM, AllerCatPro and IEDB. The peptide in that panel is caffeoyl hexapeptide-9, a caffeic-acid conjugate with its own INCI name. It is a useful paper about a useful method, and it is not evidence about this molecule.

What the file adds up to

Strip the three records down and the position is unusually clean for a cosmetic ingredient:

  • Zero published studies test hexapeptide-9, as declared, applied to people.
  • One clinical trial tests a cyclized derivative at 0.002%, and it outperformed retinol at the same concentration on most wrinkle endpoints.
  • Two of the three records are penetration engineering, which is to say that the ingredient's own literature treats getting it into skin as the unsolved part.

That last point is the one worth carrying to a shelf. The general question of whether peptides cross the stratum corneum is the standing argument in this category, and most ingredients leave it implicit. Here the researchers state it outright, twice, and then spend their papers working around it.

Our entries on hexapeptide-11 and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 set out how much deeper a file can be; the ingredient-list guide covers what a declaration can and cannot tell you about which form of a molecule you have, and the peptide-versus-retinoid count puts the 0.002% head-to-head in its wider context — nine randomized trials for topical peptides against fifty-five for retinoids.

What would change this page

A trial of linear hexapeptide-9 as declared, at a stated concentration, against vehicle. Or the cyclized trial's full text with its participant count, which would let the effect sizes above be weighed properly. Both are ordinary requests; neither is currently answerable from the published record.

Sources

  • Chang H, Tao K, Yang Y, et al. Novel cyclized hexapeptide-9 outperforms retinol against skin aging: a randomized, double-blinded, active- and vehicle-controlled clinical trial. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025. PMID 40586182.
  • Pioneering ionic liquids in neuro-soothing: enhanced transdermal delivery of collagen peptides and their synergistic anti-aging functions. Mater Today Bio. 2025. PMID 39968525.
  • A framework for the safety evaluation of peptides in cosmetics. Curr Res Toxicol. 2026. PMID 41953401.
  • PubChem compound record, CID 16129319 (hexapeptide-9), retrieved 2026-09-19.
  • Record counts: NCBI PubMed E-utilities, searched 2026-09-19, hyphenated and unhyphenated forms plus trade name and sequence.

Frequently asked questions

What is hexapeptide-9?

A six-amino-acid peptide with the sequence glycine-proline-glutamine repeated twice, Gly-Pro-Gln-Gly-Pro-Gln, PubChem CID 16129319, molecular weight 582.6 g/mol. Its glycine-proline pattern is the repeating motif that runs through collagen, and the authors of its one clinical trial describe it as a collagen peptide. It is sold to formulators under the trade name Collaxyl IS.

Does hexapeptide-9 have a clinical trial?

One, and it tested a modified form. A randomized, double-blinded trial compared 0.002% cyclized hexapeptide-9 against 0.002% retinol and against vehicle, twice daily for 56 days, and the cyclized peptide moved more wrinkle endpoints than retinol did on crow's feet and forehead. The molecule in that trial had been chemically cyclized precisely because the unmodified one is unstable and penetrates poorly, which is the trial's own stated rationale. No published trial has tested plain hexapeptide-9 on people.

Is cyclized hexapeptide-9 the same thing as hexapeptide-9 on a label?

No, and the distinction is the most useful thing on this page. Cyclization joins the ends of the peptide into a ring, which is a structural change made to fix the stability and permeability of the linear molecule. A product declaring hexapeptide-9 in its ingredient list is declaring the linear form; the trial that produced the results people cite used the ring. Nothing in an INCI declaration tells a reader which one is in the jar, because INCI has no name for the modification.

How does hexapeptide-9 compare with retinol?

On the one trial that compared them, at the very low matched concentration of 0.002% and over 56 days, the cyclized peptide moved more of the measured wrinkle endpoints. That result is worth knowing and worth bounding: it is a single trial, the abstract does not report how many people were in it, the concentration is far below what a retinol product usually contains, and the comparison is with the cyclized molecule rather than the ingredient as normally declared. Our count of the skin-peptide literature sets the two evidence bases side by side: nine randomized trials for topical peptides against fifty-five for retinoids.

Why is there a paper about pushing it through skin with a solvent?

Because penetration is the ingredient's known weakness, and that paper attacks it from the formulation side rather than the molecule side. It uses an ionic liquid built from gamma-aminobutyric acid and lactic acid to alter the skin barrier, raising cumulative permeation of hexapeptide-9 by 4.79-fold and subcutaneous retention by 7.89-fold over twelve hours against no enhancer. Read together with the cyclization trial, two of the three records in this molecule's file are engineering answers to the same problem: on its own, it does not get in.

Is caffeoyl hexapeptide-9 the same ingredient?

No. It is a separate INCI name for a caffeic-acid conjugate, and it is the ingredient that appears in the third of the three records, a 2026 safety-evaluation framework that runs a panel of cosmetic peptides through bioinformatic screening tools. That paper is not evidence about hexapeptide-9. Name collisions of this kind are the commonest way a thin ingredient file looks thicker than it is.

Should a hexapeptide-9 serum be expected to do anything?

The published record does not answer that, because it has never tested the ingredient as sold. What it establishes is narrower and still worth having: the molecule is small and collagen-derived, its own researchers describe it as unstable and poorly permeating, the one clinical result belongs to a cyclized version at 0.002%, and the trade name under which it is sold returns no records at all. A formula naming hexapeptide-9 is naming a molecule whose entire human evidence comes from a different form of it.